“Origin Assured” guarantees that its fur comes from countries where national or local regulations or standards governing fur production are in force in an attempt to change the negative image of the fur industry.
While visual shock within the pages of Vogue magazine is as common as gum on the pavement, an ad in the September 2008 issue nevertheless left me stunned. The advertisement portrayed an attractive, fur-clad model with the following caption: “When you see the OA™ label you can be certain that, wild or farmed, the fur comes from a country where national or local regulations or standards governing fur production are in force.” A supporter of animal rights, I wondered: is this for real? Or is it simply an attempt to keep pace with a more environmentally conscious society?
The cruelty and overall profligacy of the fur trade has been publicized for years. And as the public becomes more ecologically conscious, fur-wearers are now being classified as extravagant, uncaring, out-of-date individuals. Due to this growing awareness, an increasing number of luxury markets are now letting people know where exactly the product is coming from and how it is obtained. “The ‘Ethical consumerism’ trend is now affecting the luxury sector around the world, including the emerging markets of Russia and China” explains Andreas Lenhart, Chairman, International Fur Trade Federation. Catering to this new “guilt-free” luxury trend, founder Suzy Menkes launched the Origin Assured™ label in Moscow at the IHT luxury conference sporting the slogan, “Fur, The Natural Responsible Choice.”
The deciding factor determining if label is given the OA™ stamp of approval is whether or not the fur comes from a country where state and national regulations on fur production are enforced. So what are these standards governing fur production? Many “regulations” governing fur production do not address the issue of cruelty or humane slaughter; they apply solely to economic issues and trade. Regulation 90-27 of New Brunswick Canada, for example, states, “’Fur industry loan” means a loan advanced by the Board to a farmer engaged in the business of fox or mink fur production for the purpose of meeting operating costs.” Other regulations in other countries deal simply with exporting and importing fur, tariff, taxes, and licensing agreements for fur farms. Are these really the ethical dilemas the “responsible consumer” should be concerned about?
Millions of fur-bearing animals including foxes, raccoons, minks, coyotes, bobcats, lynxes, opossums, nutria, beavers, muskrats, otters, and others are killed each year on fur farms as well as in the wild by use of traps and hunting. Fur regulations fail to address the issue of humane slaughter for these animals. To kill the animals without damaging their fur, trappers usually strangle, beat, or stomp them to death. Animals on fur farms may be gassed, vaginally electrocuted, poisoned with strychnine, or have their necks snapped. These methods are not 100 percent effective and some animals "wake up" while being skinned. These are not however the methods the fur industry is concerned about. They instead would prefer to care more about whether or not a fur shipment is being properly taxed.
The Chairman of IFTF, Andreas Lenhart, said; “Fur is a natural partner for the Supreme Luxury conference; it embodies the very best aspects of luxury today: craftsmanship, heritage and quality. The fur industry has also been responding to the spirit of the times; by answering our consumers’ desire to understand the ‘story’ of their fur. A fur carrying the Origin Assured label provides the consumer with an assurance that the fur they have purchased comes from a country where good welfare standards apply. The label reinforces the fact that we are a responsible industry, committed to transparency.” This transparency does not however include allowing the public to see into the means used by the industry to obtain the fur and slaughter techniques. Reportedly, recent research shows that a fur garment becomes more desirable to consumers by between 12% (in Switzerland) and 30% (in Russia) if it has an OA™ label attached.” These customers who believe they are making an ethically sound decision when buying Origin Assured might be surprised to hear that the regulations and standards OA™ supports do not address animal rights issues whatsoever.
A more ethically sound decision for the modern-day consumer would be to either buy faux fur or purchase from designers such as Stella McCartney, Kenneth Cole, Calvin Klein, and many others who have decided to be fur-free. Until the real problems with the fur-industry are addressed and corrected, the idea that fur can be worn with confidence of its origin is a false statement.
Sources
- Vogue magazine.
- Originassured.co.uk
- Furisdead.com
- “Animal Rights: A Very Short Introduction.” By David DeGrazia 2003
- Press releases:
April 2008
WWDCollections April 2008 -
20th February 2008
Namibian Karakul Granted OA™ Mark
19th February 2008
Independent Monitors Of OA™ Pass 80% Of Furs In First Tranche
7th December 2007
Luxury Brands Agree - Origin Assurance Is In Vogue
December 2007
"Fur the most beautiful fabric"
The Fashion World Celebrates Fur In Moscow
13th December 2006
This is Origin Assured
- Furcomission.com
- Canlii.org/nb/laws/
- Fur Industry Loan Regulation - Agricultural Development Act
- Tdctrade.com
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